#Ofna dm1 electric how to
#Ofna dm1 electric pro
#Ofna dm1 electric plus

So I got in touch with Neumotors, brand of the motor to be installed, and I asked them to manufacture a rotor with a longer shaft. But I needed more than 35 mm in order to put two gears. Usually the shafts are not very long, 20 to 30 mm. The motor also had to be modifed, namely the rotor shaft. After a session of 'brain storm' with a servo in hand, a piece of carbon fiber used as sub-chassis and the car, I found the position for each of the parties: the servo steering, in the front and inverted, through sub-chassis the servo brake close to the disks, also through sub-chassis and finally the receiver directly secured with double side tape on the sub-chassis. Also I still had to find room for the servos and radio receiver. The concept worth, but the piece could not be copied, because, the distance between gear boxes is different.

So, I adopted this solution for conversion.

#Ofna dm1 electric plus

There is a slight increase in weight compared to the standard solution in the form of off-road 1/8 braces, but this provides structural rigidity, plus load spread to other car parts in case of frontal impact. With a piece of carbon fiber around two millimetres I joined the front gear box, the centre spur mount the rear gear box. This allowed me to put an upper sub-chassis style electric touring cars. Already considering that car, I realized that the gear box and centre spur mounts were the same height. Once again I went to my experience with DM1e. What can we do!, You cannot have everything!. This is weight, the bad, but it is also possible to optimize gear ratios for low and high speed, in addition to reducing the motor amperage. If you have two gears on an electric car you lose the motor braking capability, then you need disc brakes and a servo to act them.

Yes, I write it in plural servos, because from the first moment I decided I was going to keep the two gears. Now I had solved the motor installation, ESC, batteries, and suspension, I come back with the installation of the receiver and servos. This also helped me to clear the middle of the car and, for purists, lowering the centre of gravity. Direct and without thinking twice I made a copy of the tower and bought another to put on the rear suspension. At the time, for DM1e, I already made a vertical tower for the front suspension and found that gripped and turned the car much better.

#Ofna dm1 electric pro

EL DM1 pro carries front and rear horizontal!. DM1e front shocks are horizontal, Formula 1 type, while the rear is the traditional vertical configuration. Next was to fix one thing I never liked about the configuration of the DM models: the suspension. Of course I did not find in the parts market a support adapted to the space I had, is that I've had to make my own tray, which ultimately I designed so that the battery is installed sideways. The motor is clearly behind the centre of gravity, while the left side batteries get more or less in the middle. Well thought was not bad solution: the third battery would advance the longitudinal centre of gravity. The motor has a fixed place on the right side, which is behind the spurs gears, so that in the normal direction of rotation causes the car forward: then the battery should go ahead of spurs. The issue was now search space on the right side to add a battery and motor. If I put a third battery on the right hand side I can feed the engine with 6S instead of 4S. So I thought: 200 grams give or take are the weight of a battery. Depending on the batteries you use and the weight of the motor, you may end up having to counteract the offset up to 200g on the right side.

įrom the OFNA DM1e I learned that the weight distribution I is not optimized: the centre of gravity is shifted to the left, and pretty. With this basic outline I found the first inconsistency: the installation of the servos and receiver so is that I had no choice but to look elsewhere for them. I opted for a similar solution to that of his younger brother, already electric: the OFNA DM1e, ie, a double battery holder and the ESC on the left side of the car, and the engine and mounting on the right side.

#Ofna dm1 electric how to

Once the space was clear I began to think about how to install it an electric motor, batteries, ESC.

Of course, the first thing was to remove everything that was related to the gasoline engine: engine, fuel tank, motor mount, silencer, mainly. Following I tell you what I done to make the conversion. So from the first day I set to work to turn it into an electric car. Long ago I bought an OFNA DM1 pro, but I never liked its factory settings.